Adam's Peak

It took between five and six buses to get to Dalhousie, the starting point for the climb to Adam's Peak. On the whole these endless journeys are entertaining. On these alone I witnessed a man selling balloons that make a noise when released. He then proceeded to demonstrate it on the moving bus by releasing them to the bemusement of all as they whizzed wildly out of control. Then there was the man with the photo album containing pictures of him trapped under a rock surrounded by a crowd of people and later receiving a trophy. He received less money from the passengers on the bus. Lastly there was the lady who after handing out magazines proceeded to do a rap for twenty minutes at the front. Unfortunately though buses on the Indian subcontinent also have a dark side. Half way through the journey, an 'express bus to the airport' carved the bus I was in up and slammed on the breaks. Promptly two guys jumped off and charged towards our bus. The conductor searched around for somewhere to hide. He sized up the monk (who sat in his specially reserved seat) or the only white face on the bus. He cowered behind me. I recalled stories of fist fights and baseball bats. I took a deep breath as they through themselves aggressively onto the bus. Thankfully a verbal outburst, and a lot of pointing, was all that was in order, with one of the guys acting as a restrainer (whilst still having his say). Everyone on the bus sat in silence, watching, giving the eerie feeling that it was an all to common event. Almost as soon as they had left the bus and sped away, our conductor got straight onto the mobile. I have little doubt that he was organising his own retaliation.

Finally I arrived none the wiser as to where Sri Lankas most important pilgrimage site was hiding. The clouds clung to the valley. Full of optimism though we were on the path at 3am the following morning with stars across the sky, hoping to make the top by sunrise. It's one of the strangest climbs that I have ever done. With a Buddhist temple on the top it's visited by thousands of pilgrims every year. The dominance of Buddhism is slightly confusing considering many suggest that the footprint at the top can be attributed to Adam on his first entrance into the world and even Lord Shiva as well as Buddha.



To help the older pilgrims they've installed those dreaded things called steps. All 5,200 of them, as well as lights all the way up the path. You pass various statues and temples as chants echo out from the speakers. Despite the pleasant atmosphere, the steps were a killer. Not to be deterred though we made it to the top in under two hours, an impressive time even if I say so myself.

When the sun finally rose it revealed a range of mountains full of mystique as the clouds clung to the valleys below. Whilst the tourists got snapping the monks and pilgrims went about the serious work of music and prayer. It was quite a sight from the top which made the torture of the steps worth it. On trudging back down we made use of a natural pool of water in the stream for a swim. It was freezing!!! By 9am I was back in bed. Job well done!

Sigiriya

"Stop faffing and get up there now!" the guest house owner might as well have said to me. The first dry day in weeks and despite my long bus journey, she was quite sure that me kicking back in a chair was not the correct option. 

I reluctantly agreed. Despite an overcast sky it seemed wise to take the opportunity and not risk the morning weather. Just getting to the entrance gate though turned out to be a chore. The previous rain had turned the path into a mud bath. Walking it was at times treacherous and wasn't helped by the signs that informed walkers of the presence of crocodiles. Just what I needed on the footpath!

When inside it all becomes worth it. Its hard not to feel like an ant in comparison to the gigantic rock fortress that emerges from the jungle. In the flat scenery that it is a part of, it is one of the most imposing sites I have ever seen. It's a decent climb to the top taking in muddy slopes, uneven steps and spiral staircases. On the way up you pass Buddhist paintings clinging to a cave wall, potentially dating back to the 5th century. There's also a mirror wall with graffiti from over a thousand years ago. In local script it's not something you can decipher but it's age is impressive enough. Most striking however is the huge lion paws about halfway up. Around the height of me, one can only imagine what it must have been like as part of a domineering statue of a lion scaling the height of the rock. At the top are the remains of what is now thought to be a Buddhist temple. Unfortunately due to the weather the views were not as good as they could be but you got a good sense of the jungle that surrounds it and the mountain peaks in the distance. This huge rock is quite literally in the middle of nowhere. Just when I was enjoying the success of then climb, the heavens opened and I got drenched. The guest house manager was right to a point!

Kandy

Kandy was a washout. The rain that has made the east coast a no go zone, hit the hill country with all it's force. So bad was It that I purchased my first ever umbrella. It kept me dry but also in a perpetual battle against every other pedestrian, who were also wielding umbrellas. At times the pavements came to a standstill as they became locked together!

Two memories stick in mind. The first was going to visit a rather strange religious site. Of all the countries in the world to have Buddhas tooth in it's sweet box, Sri Lanka would he low on the list. However despite nearly every colonial power attempting to steal it off of them, it now sits in an elaborate golden chest in the temple of the sacred tooth relic. It's a bizarre affair as you wonder around the beautifully decorated interior where monks are drumming and distributing kilos of rice to the shrines. When you finally find your way to where the tooth is stored, you queue alongside hoards of locals each carrying a gift. The queue moves quickly though as you only  have five or so seconds to gaze upon the incredible golden chest (the tooth is apparently inside), surrounded by elephant tusks, before being moved on by security. If your Japanese you get longer. Sri Lanka loves the Japanese. As an attraction it's one of the most confusing that I have seen. To set eyes upon such beauty, before having the door slammed in your face, without fully comprehending what you have seen, leaves you with mixed impressions.

The second memory was when walking to the tooth relic. Upon peering into the lake we found ourselves two meters away from a meter and a half lizard. What turned out to be a water monitor lizard resembled a crocodile when swimming and when attracted to our presence, a Komodo dragon, tongue and all as it edged out of the water. An amazing site to see something like that in the wild. 

With the weather not looking like it was going to improve, I left Kandy and spent a day travelling up north to Sigiriya. It was a shame to leave so soon as it looked like it had a lot to offer in the dry but it gives me an excuse to return on another trip.

Midigama

I knew that I'd like Sri Lanka from the moment the immigration officer stamped my passport, after barely a glance, and then gave a huge smile which just spoke welcome to my country. The police and army that surrounded the airport couldn't have been more helpful. At 4am the ground temperature was twenty four degrees. By 6am I was enjoying an all you can eat Sri Lankan breakfast extravaganza.

From the airport I made a five hour bus joruney to the tiny beach of Midigama. Renowned as having the best breaks on the south coast it has three guest houses and not a lot else. It was there that I met up with Andrew, a surfer from South Africa and Tom and Alex from Brighton. We had all met at varying times in India but most recently in Goa. Ram's guest house was a treat to behold. Looking out to the breaks and beach it had some of the friendliest owners and workers that I have met so far. Oh and the curry and rice was delicious. It sounds unimaginative but the curry and rice in Sri Lanka is currently beating anything that India can serve up on the food front. There are just so many dishes!!!!

The waves at Midigama are big and not great for beginners not least because of the rocks that are concealed beneath them. You don't want to be falling off! So instead we surfed for two days, around ten minutes away at Weligama. The beach is not as picturesque, although a lot bigger, however the waves are more consistent and thankfully there is a sandy bottom. On the first day I was genuingly surprised by how quickly we took to it. I stood up a number of times and managed to ride it into the beach which was a fantastic feeling. Come the second day it started so well. Up on the board a lot of times, I was even getting the hang of turning it! And then I changed boards, the waves became less consistent and I started to overthink what I was doing. It became hard work. By the end of the day I was chuffed by the progress made but frustrated at the same time.

It wasn't all surfing. On the final day in Midigama we took a trip away from the ocean and to the Ayurvedic Medicine Snake Farm. It was a joy to visit not least because it is quite litterally a house with an attached shed where the wonderfully friendly and knowledgable owner keeps his snakes. Extracting the venom has been a job handed down from generation to generation. For the hour we were there the owner heaved out snake after snake to show us. The venomous ones were let loose on the floor whilst the others strung around our necks for us to hold. At one point he brought out two cobras. After putting one away he left the other in a trance with us all stood there. It was surreal seeing such a deadly snake so close and yet it being so unable or unwilling to do anything.

In the afternoon we took a trip over to Unawatuna. Whatever beauty it had was lost when the tsunami hit. Since that moment development took over and the beach has pretty much vanished under resteraunts and bars, many of which have been built on the high tide mark. Fortuantely hidden away over the other side there is a little treasure called Jungle Beach. Although the sea was not perfect we dawned the snorkel gear and went out over to the rocks. I've never snorkeled before. No more was that shown than when I was about to give up Alex informed me that I wasn't putting the goggles over my nose hence why I was drinking so much salt water! From that moment on the journey by the rocks was magic. Although it was murky there were so many fish straight out of the tropical aquariums from home. Shawls of fish bashed into you, it was immenses. Andrew, who we were indebited to for him knowing of this place, explained that exporting these fish is big business in Sri Lanka.

The following day we departed Midigama safe in the kowledge that we would be back there at the end of the trip. We took a chaotic bus journey to Hikkaduwa, a large beach on the souh coast. It was supposed to be the end of the big surf competition however due to poor weather they had posponed it. Thankfully though the trip wasn't in vain. Hikkaduwa is home to the bar where the Mambo's brand originated from. There they hosted the most professional party I've been to since I've been travelling, right on the beach. It was a great night.

It was from there that we left the beach for a while. Instead it was time to head up to the cooler climbs of the hill country.

Mamallapuram

I only stayed for one day so I won't write much however despite the short stay I was impressed. It's like a mini-Hampi. There are boulders and anchient temples dating back to the seventh century. But unlike in Hampi it's harder to lose yourself in the landscape. Main roads loop around groupings of temples and they are confined within a much smaller area. But that said it doesn't detract from the enjoyment of what is quite a spectacular open aired museum.

Mamallapuram and the one day I spent there made for a brilliant end to my time in India. It's a very relaxing and chilled small town with a good backpackers set-up. Outside of the ruins it also has a beach thrown into the mix. Although anyone thinking of spending any sort of time on it must be mad as it resembled a rubbish dump more than a beach. Despite this though hoardes of Indians were enjoying the beach and the waves which came crashing in. It made for an incredibly stressful time for the lifeguards as according to the sign over thirteen people die there every year.

And that was it. My time in india had come to an end. Four months have vanished in shockignly quick time. I've had a superb time, seen some breathtaking sights and met so many fantastic people. Sometimes challenging, it's always an adventure, India offers up something for everyone. Next Sri Lanka. I can't wait.

Coimbatore, Ponducherry, Chidambara

Coimbatore has nothing. It's described by the Lonely Planet as India's Manchester. It relates that to the textiles industry however secretly links them to the total absence of attractions. It's also lacking in a day bus to Ponducherry which meant that I had a long twenty four hour unexpected stop there.

That said two memories spring to mind. The first was hearing my door buzzer sounding just before midnight (yes I was staying in a half decent room). I answered the door wearily to see the hotel manager and three policemen. Now that starts the heart racing! The police then proceeded to interrogate me as to my name, where I've come from etc. All quite straightforward but not when you were getting ready to drop off to sleep. After a quick scan of the room they decided there was nothing unterward and left. It's quite common for the police to call on tourist rooms to check for bombs and drugs however I've never heard of it happeneing that late before.

Secondly it was the food. Coimbatore is the king of Indian cooking. On my full day I crammed in five full meals, in different places, just because it was so good. No more so than the small food stall whose mushroom kalaan went down an absolute treat (I ordered two plates). The Lonely Planet describes it as the best street food they've had in South India. Its the best street food I've had in the whole of India.

From there I finally made it to Ponducherry. Following in the spirit of Kerela, accommodation was an absolute nightmate. Why don't I learn and book ahead? Just when I was seriously considering moving to another town I got a spot in an ashram dedicated to the teachings of 'the mother'. Her face is everywhere in Ponducherry. It's a little strange.

Anyways to keep it short I probably could have left Pondy and felt I had seen the sights after my morning search for accommodation. Personally nothing about the place really stood out. The churches were grand but would not stop you in your tracks. The French quarter wasn't much to look at and the seaside part was more akin to Blackpool than India. I wasn't bored, nor was I dissappointed, it kept me relatively enteretained for half a day but I don't understand why so many people visit there.

On the second day I took a day trip and caught the bus for two hours out to Chidambara. The temple there is dedicated to Lord Shiva and from what I understood as his victory in a dance off. Quite wonderfully, I witnessed some people dancing their way in through the temple doors! The carvings and imagery were impressive as was the golden roof with 21600 tiles representing the amount of breaths we take in a day, but most breathtaking was the sheer size of the place. I don't know why it is so big but it's quite something exploring around whilst hearing peoples voices echo hauntingly around the complex.

The following morning I got to the bus station ready to leave but expecting problems. How to say Mamallapuram? I went up to the first conductor I saw. Drawing a deep breath I uttered the word that was causing me all sorts of problems. He pointed to the bus behind me. What luck! Two hours later I ended up in Maharajapuram. After getting off the bust to the bemusement of those around me I spoke to the next conductor. He explained how to get to Mamallapuram but his accent was so strong it was impossible to understand the place names. He volunteered to write it down for me. He didn't write it in English but looked very pleased with himself. In one mispronunciation I turned my easiest bus ride in India of two hours, into a six hour adventure.

Munnar

Just when I thought that I had seen the broad overview of India it threw up one more surprise. Looking out of the window of the bus was an absolute treat as I traveled through the hills and tea plantations of Kerela. It really was quite special. Straight out of a post card it is yet another wildly different scenery that India has in its armory.

It is with those views in mind that Munnar dissappointed. It is quite a grubby little town that detracts from the beautiful setting that it is a part of. My initial impressions were not helped by the amount of tourists from both India and further afield. Since arrving in India I have been fortunate to have been able to move from place to place, without a worry for accommodation. Since arriving in Kerela however its all change and I've been having a struggle to find budget rooms. Munnar was no different and I ended up joining a line of people heading towards a group of guest houses that offereed the only budget accommodation available. Luckily I got one of the last rooms for a decent price but it was unnecessary stress on arrival.

On the first day I took the time to go for a good fifteen kilometer walk. It was a pleasant stroll through the tea plantations but a bit restrictive in terms of the paths being private property so you were mostly road bound. On the second day I took a bus out to Top Station which is a superb spot promising excellent views over Tamil Nadu. Unfortunately by the the time I had arrived the clouds had rolled in. That said it seemed to be out of reach of most visitors being over 30km outside of Munnar and so I enjoyed several hours of peace and quiet amongst the company of a lovely older Australian couple. When you find quiet places in India you have to make the most of it.

As I left Munnar on the bus to Coimbatore, I was treated to more spectacular views. It was worth visiting for the bus rides alone, even if the excursions were a little disappointing. In hindsight I should probably have hired a rickshaw for the day to get around more of the area but the costs were a little steep.

And it was with that thought that I left India's second most popular state. I have to admit that with the build up it gets from some people I was a little disappointed. Sure it was scenically beautiful and had plenty of things to do but I couldn't reconcile the sheer volume of people. It just felt like you were on a continuous conveyor belt of tourists. Of course that was always going to be the downside of traveling through it during peak season but still it does detract somewhat. I think also in comparison to say Himachal Province or Rajasthan the sights in Kerela just feel that more established, that more polished. Unfortunately whilst that makes certain aspects easier it does mean that personally I felt it loses a bit of that Indian rustic charm.