Brestagi

It was one of those Indonesian mini buss hopping adventures to get to Brestagi. Constantly crammed and made for smaller people than me (how Paul coped I will never know) they were a constant fascination as well as moving torture mobiles.

Brestagi is what I have come to understand as a typical Indonesian town. Ugly, busy and a little bit dirty. We weren’t here to admire the town however; we were here to climb a volcano, Gurung Simayek. The following day we set off with a hand drawn map and a lunch box and began to walk towards the entrance to the park. We were soon lost. Not to be deterred and a couple of waving hands from locals later we were back on track and began the winding ascent up the paved road. At one point we came across a group of Indonesian students wondering down with a guitar. I asked them to play a song. They ushered us into the road and began strumming along. We talked a little bit and then scarpered as a mini bus swung around the corner. Laughing we parted and continued up the hill.

The road soon disappeared and we got to play a game of can you find the mud path up to the volcano. After a while it turned out we could, latching onto the most indistinguishable path possible. It took us up into the mountains. The beautiful greenery soon gave way and the top of the volcano was in view. It’s hard to remember what hit first, the sight of it, the smell of it or the noise of the sulphur escaping from the vents. The crater itself is dry and now covered in peoples messages made out of stones. Surrounding it however are green glows, with smoke pouring out and loud hissing noises. I put my hand over one, it was boiling hot! I’ve never been on an active volcano before. The experience was quite something.

We spent some time around the area and then began our descent down. It was smooth enough until our ‘not to scale’ map decided to take us on a walk far beyond what would be seen as acceptable considering we’d just climbed a decent amount already. After goodness knows how long (at least an hour I’d suggest) we finally hit a main road. We sat down. A motorbike taxi asked us if we wanted a lift into town. “Us! No, we’re hikers, and pretty good at it, we’ll walk it, it’s not far anyway, just look at the map!” He didn’t attempt to persuade us, which was strange considering after a while we passed a sign saying eight kilometers to Brestagi. Considering by this point we had been walking for six odd hours that’s no mean distance. Determined we polished it off in impressive time. It had been a great day although I was quite happy to be back at the hotel and with no more than ten steps to navigate between the room and the restaurant.

Bukit Luwang

Just the twenty two hours to Bukit Luwang via Medan. After various changes of vehicles we arrived, just about in one piece surrounded by the lush jungle of the Gunung Leuser National Park. Bukit Luwang prides itself on being one of the most accessible places in the world to see orangutans. For a number of years now it has been rehabilitating orangutans back into the wild; a project which has been recognized by the WWF as a total success.

Arriving in the early afternoon we made our way up to the feeding platform where twice daily they provide food for the semi wild orangutans, yet to take the full leap to independence. We had met a guide called Eddie on the mini bus in and had agreed to go on a trek with him into the jungle for the following day along with two other people. Somewhere along the line in our conversation with him both Paul and I left with the impression that the feeding started at two in the afternoon despite everything else saying three.

The walk up the hill was pleasant. Huge numbers of locals from Medan tubed down the river and ate food next to it. There was such an un-spoilt atmosphere to the place. Everyone was out to enjoy themselves against a backdrop of spectacular dense jungle. After a short walk we came across a canoe tied to a zip line. The entrance to the park lay across the river. A couple of people hung around but there seemed very little activity, strange considering we were so close to feeding time. We got in the canoe and started to pull ourselves across. A local jumped on and helped with the work. He then paddled back.

We wondered in through the gates and past the park rangers office. Two men lay asleep in hammocks. We didn’t wake them up. We were in a rush to get to the feeding deck in time after all. Another short walk up hill and a couple of turnings later and we arrived at what we assumed was the feeding area except nobody was there. We sat on a log and waited.

After a while I got bored and headed down another path to see what was around the corner. I returned shortly after and Paul pointed up into a tree. There above sat a mother and her baby. It was a special moment seeing these incredible creatures up above us. We watched for a long time before Paul decided he’d go and find out what was happening about the feeding time. He returned to see me in a state of laughter pulling poo out of my hair. After a steady stream of urine minutes earlier that I had successfully dodged, I was caught by surprise by the dropping of excrement from above. It sure did smell.



It was then that we turned around and saw a large adult male sat on the feeding platform with a bunch of bananas in his mouth. I didn’t know that orangutans could grow so big, he was massive! The facial expressions he pulled as he watched us, the mother and baby and the bananas he was trying to eat was hilarious. Minutes later a local guy appeared and the male went back into the overgrowth.

Shortly after that the hundreds descended on us. Led by a number of park rangers it was time for the feeding circus. The lead guide walked up to the platform and looked back on the watching crowd. Seconds later he was running back towards us as the male orangutan crept up behind him. It took a long time and a lot of negotiating before he went back up to drop the food!

As this was going on another guide sat down with us and expressed surprise as to how we got there. Telling him we navigated the canoe over the river seemed to confuse him even more. After a short lecture as to how dangerous it was to be alone in the jungle with the orangutans we went back to watching the chaos of dozens of locals in a peaceful jungle. Not that I would ever want to encourage people to flout the parks rules but the feeding time was a nightmare, whilst the hour before, magical. A few bananas later and we left back down towards our hut to prepare for the following day.

We awoke early and wondered over to where we had arranged to meet Eddie and the other two in our group. Unfortunately Sumatran journey time had not been to kind to the other two who had to postpone their trip due to arriving so late in the evening. Instead we were palmed off onto Erwin and Johnny. We joined with a very brave French family, taking their kids out of school for six months and navigating a six year old through the terrain! There was also a couple of Australians which provided plenty of banter on route.

Within the first two hours of trekking into the jungle we had seen eleven orangutans. Of all different sizes and plenty of mothers and babies it was wonderful seeing mans closest relative up close in their natural habitat. Normally animal sightings are fleeting but not these. The orangutans seemed just as interested in us as we were in them.

Not long after that we came across ‘white gloved’ gibbons high up in a tree. Huge ants ran across the floor (and sometimes in Erwin’s mouth) the jungle was full of life. It was all going perfectly to plan until Erwin stopped us in our tracks. He uttered one word, “Mina”. Almost as soon as you step foot in Bukit Luwang you hear about her. Responsible for sixty five attacks on tourists and guides she truly is the queen of the jungle. As our guides rushed ahead to divert her we eventually had to change our route and crossed the small river at a different point. Soon after we settled down for a snack and began to come to terms with how lucky we had been with the animal sightings so far.

“Quick, Mina, go!” the guides suddenly shouted and everyone grabbed for their bags. In the distance branches moved. An orangutan and its baby were swinging in from the distance. It was a majestic sight to see how quickly they can move when they want to. As it landed in front of us you could feel the relief as Erwin identified it not as Mina. Everyone could relax. Except some relaxed too much, choosing to ignore the whole, keep your distance, they are wild animals. I stood a distance away, hesitant to get as close as some of the children were. Next thing I knew, I had a orangutan running at me. I grabbed my bag and moved out of the way as it charged on through and into the bushes. There wasn’t a lot of time to think before we were moving again as the real Mina had found us and we needed to get going. A short flash of orange was all I saw before being motioned up the hill and away.

The rest of the day was uneventful, but thoroughly enjoyable, if a little tiring in the heat. We admired centuries old trees and enjoyed such ‘delicious’ snacks as jungle ice cream. In the late afternoon we arrived at camp. Sitting alongside the river, it was a simple set up with a mat to sleep on and some tarpaulin over the top to keep the rain off. Our guides started to cook up tea and we all went for a swim in the river, battling against the strong currents that attempted to pull us back down stream. After another superb meal we played various games with matchsticks into the night. Erwin and Johnny win the prize for the most amusing and entertaining guides I have had. They have provided plenty of games to take back into schools when I return.

We awoke to monkeys looking down upon us and enjoyed another morning swim. A little later we went up and visited a couple of waterfalls, set back within the jungle. Then it was time to return back to base. A large monitor lizard made its home in our camp whilst we attempted to get our belongings in order. Eventually it moved on and the guides began to strap together four rubber tubes to form a raft. Armed with two wooden poles we rafted the rapids back to town. It was a great way to end a very special and memorable trip.

Docking on shore we made our way up to the so called bat cave. It was amusing trying to find it, passing the swallow cave, the new cave etc. Success followed slowly and we went in with one fading head torch. The cave itself was fairly uninspiring but for the gaps where sunlight filled the cavern and everything became very green. That was all rather Indiana Jones.

After another well deserved sleep we left the following day for Berastagi. Bukit Luwang was one of those places that will stay with me for a very long time. So far Sumatra is outdoing herself.

Pulau Weh

We caught a taxi out to the ferry and one hour later we were on the small island of Pulau Weh. I say small, it was still another hour to get to the beach of Iboih, but in comparison to Sumatra it’s a mere pin prick.

Iboih is a small collection of huts strung out mostly along the hillside. It didn’t take us long to have our sea side real estate secured. Sure a Jenga tower looked far more stable than the rickety mess that we agreed to rent but it came with two hammocks, a large balcony and only five steps to walk down until your feet touched the ocean. Two more and we were underwater dodging schools of fish ranging from the miniscule to the frighteningly large. Lion fish, sea snakes, trigger fish, the cast of Finding Nemo and thousands more that I could never hope to identify.

Most of the time on the island was spent in-between a hammock and the ocean. We broke the trend on one afternoon and hired a canoe. The owner looked excited when we pointed at the sign and he pointed at the canoe. A traditional thin boat made out of wood and outriggers made out of piping with a finishing coat of Rastafarian colours. It was entertaining if the distance covered was minimal. Paul got the short end of the stick by getting into the boat at the back and hence forth became the paddler. I perched at the front attempting to keep the balance of the boat.

Initially we directed the boat around the small island that hovered just off Pulau Weh. We soon discovered the open water that was revealed was no place for a traditional canoe. Steering went out of the window as the sea got choppy and the currents cut in. Before we knew it we were back near our accommodation. Instead we rowed over to the small island and pulled the boat as far onto the beach as we could. Just in case we tied it to a rock and wedged it in between another one. Who says Bear Grills is not one of England’s finest educators?

On the far side of the island was a coral garden. After a couple of photos with visiting local tourists we were allowed into the water and swam between them floating aimlessly with the waves in their life jackets. The coral wasn’t in its best shape but some parts were living. There was a typical abundance of fish and a sea snake which was all rather exciting. Getting back in contained the typical problem of not standing on the coral as the tide had an altogether different idea.

Upon getting back to the beach we were relieved to find the boat as we had left it, on the beach, not in the ocean. Unfortunately however it seemed to have lost all buoyancy. The first attempt to launch it was hastily called off as it began to sink. After an investigation and minor fixes we took to the ocean and paddled as fast as possible to get it back to the restaurant without it sinking. It was touch and go, a lot of bailing out took place!

We left Pulau Weh the following day. If there is one problem with the island it is that it is in the middle of nowhere. Neither of us dared to think just how long it would take to reach Bukit Luwang.

Banda Aceh - Indonesia

The moment I saw that we could fly into Banda Aceh, Indonesia, I jumped at the opportunity. Firstly its close proximity to Pulau Weh appealed but in many ways it was its fascinating if traumatic recent history that made me change the flight plans instantly.

For much of the 1990’s it had been under martial law and after failed peace talks in 2003 it had witnessed the largest military operation by the Indonesian army since 1975. A tiny tourist quota existed, but largely it remained a place outside of the radar of the west. It all changed in 2004 and the Boxing Day tsunami killing around 200,000 people. Sixty per cent of the city was destroyed. Banda Aceh had no choice but to seek the support of the outside world. More recently amongst the huge rebuilding success it has courted controversy by implementing Sharia Law in 2009. It is not uncommon for stonings to occur and alcohol is banned amongst many other things. A couple of days before we arrived I read in a Malaysian newspaper how a Muslim extremist training camp in the province had been infiltrated and its leaders arrested. It promised to be like a place that I had never visited before.

On getting off the plane, amongst the paddy fields and mountain range in the background I was struck by the queue that soon developed around immigration. It was huge, nearly stretching back to the plane. Above the desk read ‘Indonesian passport holders.’ To the right sat a desk, with two officials and no one in sight, ‘foreign passport holders’ this one read. Despite first and only in queue it still took a lengthy time to get through with the officials seemingly perplexed by the two month visa I held. Eventually I was allowed in and Paul soon after thanks to a relatively smooth visa on arrival process.



We made our way to our hotel which had had a makeover in recent years converting itself into a residential block awash with Indonesian families and us. The first thing that strikes you about Banda Aceh is the incredible rebuilding work that has taken place in the last six years. If you were just passing through you would be none the wiser as to the tragedy that struck. There are though a few signs still left. One was a 2km walk from our hotel. A large fishing boat sits precariously on top of a house, a long way from the ocean. It’s become one of the enduring images of the tsunami and helped to put into context what happened on that day.

Very recently Banda Aceh has completed its tsunami museum. One of the finest museums I have been to, it’s very avant garde. Upon entering you pass through a darkened room, along a narrow path, with two waterfalls spraying water over you from a great height. Wet, you enter into a room of mirrors with computer screens showing images taken during the tsunami. Harrowing, they told their own story. The rest of the museum was dedicated towards videos, many more pictures and selected information. It really was a very good museum made that much more sobering by the realization that most of the people we were sharing it with had lived through it.

Indonesian is the most populated Muslim country in the world. Aceh in many respects Indonesia's most devout. To gain a greater understanding we visited the Masjid Raya Baiturrahman. The mosque is spectacular, so dominant in the city it is a wonderful example of architecture. We didn’t get to see much of the inside other than peering in through the odd door, but it looked every bit as good as the outside. As we walked around we were greeted by families and others asking for us to appear in photos with them. The warmth and friendliness of the place was infectious. After reading the lonely planets ten things not to do in Banda Aceh it was amusing at one point to find myself posing for a photo with a Muslim lady surrounded by a group of watching local men with the mosque as the backdrop. It was the only moment in my time in Banda Aceh when I thought to myself ‘have I just gotten myself in trouble?’I needn’t have worried, they found it hilarious.

If there was to be one negative it would be the general sleep disturbances which I am sure will become the norm in Indonesia. Firstly you’ve got the expected morning prayers from the mosques. It’s actually quite a nice way to wake up and I always enjoyed it in India, just shame it’s not a little later. Then there are the mysterious men and their whistles paid to help cars park and get back out onto the road. It’s a job that I can think of no comparisons. Mind boggling and enough to drive a man insane when trying to drop off to sleep to the sound of the repeated blowings of a whistle.

Banda Aceh is one of those places that the perceived negatives put off many from visiting. For us however it was an absolute pleasure. The sights were interesting and the people just lovely. The city never felt unsafe. A great start to Indonesia.

Cameron Highlands to KL

To break up the journey to Kuala Lumpur we stopped at the Cameron Highlands for a night. Set in the mountains, it not only offers a good climate but also many paths through the forests and the surrounding tea estates. As soon as we arrived we dumped the bags and set off on one such walk. The Rough Guide did warn that finding the starts of the paths was notoriously difficult but that was an understatement. After nearly an hour of searching around apartment blocks we found the path leading through a garden center. As soon as we were on the path we were off it due to a signpost pointing us in completely the wrong direction and back down onto a road. We gave up.

The following morning we tried again this time on a different path. Another hour passed until we met an American and a Scottish walker coming down a road from behind the hospital. We quickly shared our failure to find the path and that it was strange how a hospital could have been emitted from the Rough Guides map. After consulting a local gardener we were pointed in a new direction which led to the desired entrance. Success! The path was a superb three or so hour walk through the forest. We didn’t meet anyone on the way up and although the view was hampered a little by the sun lights haze it was a great way to spend a morning. On the way down we passed around forty school children being led up by some hardy adults. Nearly everyone said hello and despite a very steep climb, bits of which we had to scramble up, they did it all with a huge smile on their faces. In a general sense it is amazing how different the kids are out here to back home.



In the afternoon we caught a coach down to KL, which had by far the best leg room I think I have ever had on a coach. Malaysia is surprisingly developed and modern compared to other countries in South East Asia. The one day we had in KL we met up with one of Paul’s friends from university, Sebastian, a Malaysian national now back working in his country. We met at the Petronas towers, once the highest towers in the world. They were mightily impressive, even if I could not fully appreciate the shopping center it contained.

One problem (although I might say fantastic) thing that I have encountered in Mayalasia is the dominance of Indian food. A superb reminder of just how much I enjoy it, it has stood in the way of appreciating any local dishes. Sebastian helped to take us on a whistle stop tour of a few dishes before we made our way to the KL tower. I think I am right in saying that it is the third largest tower in the world and in terms of the viewing platform is the tallest. The view from the top was slightly obscured due to the weather but still it was interesting to look out over KL.

In the evening Paul and I ate again in Chinatown. Much amusement was had when ordering baby octopus. On a stick they came, the real deal, tentacles and heads. I could feel it crawling around my stomach for days to come.

The following day we flew to Sumatra, Indonesia. It was a very whistle stop tour of Malaysia but Indonesia has captured my imagination and the sheer size of it has meant that something had to be sacrificed.

Koah Sok to Georgetown Malaysia

From Ko Tao we took the night ferry back to the mainland. It was noticeably more busy than the one I had taken over to Koh Phan gan but bearable despite the rough seas. The crowds were soon left behind to hop from island to island as we headed down to the National Park of Koah Sok.
I had heard a lot of good things about Koah Sok but other factors were at play that hampered the enjoyment slightly. With the monsoon season upon us the park had closed many areas out of fear of flash floods whilst the rest of the village was deserted making any sort of expeditions out to other areas vastly inflated.

We spent one day in the park, an afternoon walk through the primary rainforest. It would have been an unmitigated disaster if we hadn’t chosen to ignore the park closure signs and carry on anyway. The waterfall in the allowed area was dire to say the least. The walk into the closed area was far more fun, with rivers to cross, banks to scramble up and vines to play Tarzan with. I won’t say that we came across anything worthy of any merit, but the walk along the ‘paths’ was much fun. Eventually we lost it and had to turn back. Arriving back into the village we compared leeches counts, I think I was into double figures and booked our bus out the following day. The park itself has a lot to offer, but not in the monsoon season.

From Koah Sok we mini bus hopped all the way down to the Thai-Malaysian border. It was an epic day of travelling made all the easier by very comfortable transport. Thailand is rather wonderful at that. The border crossing was easily done and we reached the island of Pendang in the evening.

The name Georgetown, the city on Pendang evokes a lot of images of merchant traders and pirates. The reality disappoints in this regard. It’s now a very developed city with sky scrapers the norm. I can’t particularly speak of any highlights in terms of the sights. We toured the city for a good day but found everything to be pretty miss able. Fortunately we could rely upon India to come to the rescue and save a wasted trip. The little India was a treat, with the local restaurants that I love so much, I got reacquainted with eating with my hands and spending little in return. South East Asia has not been able to meet the Indian subcontinents ability to make you feel welcome wherever you eat. It was a joy to be welcomed in with relish rather than trepidation.

There was something much amusing on how efficient and modern Georgetown is and then you enter littler India and find the roads gridlocked, horns blaring as numerous music shops blast out differing Bollywood offerings. The only thing that was missing was rubbish on the floor and more shouting and I could have been back on the streets of Delhi.

Georgetown also went up in the standings as it delivered me a two month Indonesian visa. Type it into the internet and people are fraught with tales as to how they have tried and failed. We woke up on the morning of Visa day and set to work. I’d researched as many of the tricks as I could and hoped for the best. First was a silly amount of documents to photocopy including credit card (with blanked out numbers). Then we went for the brilliant passport photo with a red background because Georgetowns embassy has an old photocopier! Last was the smartest clothes I could dig out and finally a shave and a comb of the hair. It was highly amusing to be dressing up for an embassy.

It worked as well. Paul got turned away for not having a flight out, despite having one from Malaysia back to UK. Not good enough. I however got through and picked my visa up the following day.

Ko Tao

We arrived in Ko Tao to a thunder storm. The ocean was choppy and Koh Tao seemed to emerge suddenly out of the fog. It’s a small island famed for being one of the cheapest places in the world to do a scuba diving course. I decided not to do one on the principle that I couldn’t ever see myself making the most of it but many do.
The beach we stayed on suffered from the same problems as those on Koh Phan gan, that being it’s too shallow!!! There were some good fish to be seen off it though but in many ways the snorkel mask acted as much as a guide through the reefs than anything else.

The standout of Ko Tao was the snorkeling trip we did for the day. First stop was so called shark bay. Aptly named because it’s a place where you can often see the vegetarian black tip reef sharks. I made the mistake of doing some research the previous day when I read that it has been recently discovered that some of the reef sharks have been miss labeled and are instead Bull Sharks. These are not Vegetarian rather are responsible for more deaths per year than the Great White. So it was with slight trepidation that I jumped over-board into the ocean. My heart jumped straight away as the underwater setting was so apt for what we were searching for. Three meters deep all I could see was a graveyard of dead coral. There can be no scarier place to swim. Despite searching the sharks were not around the bay which was a shame because although riddled with fear, it would have been a cool thing to have done.

From there we went to a number of other bays and snorkeled the coral reefs. Bits were dead but other parts were very much alive. The colours of a living, breathing reef is spectacular, a real highlight of my time in Thailand. Swimming through schools of fish, watching different varieties feeding in their hundreds, fighting and playing was a joy to behold.

The boat tour ended a little prematurely when we arrived at the Ko Nang Yuan islands. The weather took a sharp turn for the worse and it bucketed down. Everyone sought shelter in the restaurant and looked out on the thundering rain. A short break allowed Paul and I to make a run to the so called ‘Japanese Gardens’ reef for a quick snorkel but as soon as we were in the rain came down again. Such was its force that the only relief from the near hail was to stay under the water battling against the waves.

On return to shore Paul and I be be-lined away from the group and visited the mini golf course. Eighteen wonderfully designed holes including a three tier castle it is far and away the best mini golf course I’ve played.



The following day we went for a walk through the jungle. After an hour or so of steep uphill and quite simply a disastrous road, long destroyed by the tsunami or flash floods we found a secluded, empty beach. Well it did have a resort attached to it but that to was deserted. A bowl and mug still lay on the table and a 2009 magazine perched on the balcony. It was one of those places that begged to tell you what had caused its demise. Whilst the location and scenery was lovely, a swim in the water revealed rubbish and made for a hasty exit.

In the evening we caught a night ferry to the mainland. Initially the waves were huge and flung the ferry about like a toy but thankfully calmed down after a few hours. We arrived on the mainland in the early hours and journeyed to Koah Sok, one of Thailand’s National Parks.

Koh Phan gan

From the west coast I diverted over to the east. A few buses and a night ferry later, which strangely takes six hours longer than the regular one, I arrived on Koh Phan gan. I wanted to arrive early before the monthly movement of people onto the island that can rival any refugee crisis around the world for the full moon party.

Koh Phan gan is not as picture postcard as Koh Phi Phi. It doesn’t have the same knock out views but it benefits from being far more low key. It is a backpacker island, suiting all levels of budgets. I stayed over on Hat Yao beach. In slight contradiction to what I have just said it is probably the second best beach I have visited. A clear ocean, lots of white sand and surrounded by hills covered in trees. It was quiet, with only the birds to be heard signing when sat on the beach. No trance or techno here.

The first couple of days represented the feeling I had when first setting foot in Goa. There was no incentive to do much other than lay in a hammock that looked over the palm trees through to the ocean. Prime sunset real estate. I of course ventured down to the beach but not much further. It’s a strange thought that travelling gets tiring but it does and those couple of days were much needed.

On the third day I wandered over to the main port to meet Paul who is joining me for a month or so. Five Kilometers my lonely planet said. My hostel owner told me half an hour (much to her embarrassment later). It took me just shy of two hours. I got there eventually and took Paul over to Hat Yao. It was great to talk to someone again which does not require the traditional, where are you from? What do you do? Where have you been travelling? Etc questions.



The following day we visited Koh Mai an island on the tip of the North East corner. It’s supposed to have the best snorkeling on the island but visibility was not great when we were there. Instead it will be remembered as the place when I developed a fear that has continued throughout the rest of Thailand. With snorkels and masks all set we ventured into the water to where the sign pointed. A reef runs close off the shore and a sandy path helps you to get out to it. The problems came when the waves kicked in and the water did not get any deeper than knee height. It’s been a problem in Thailand at this time of year that the water is just not deep enough to swim in.

With the current pulling me away from the path through the coral I became disorientated and found myself trapped on the reef with no idea where the way back in was. Standing up I was at times in ankle deep water but the waves would not relent in throwing me forward and pulling me back out. Reefs are sharp things.

I was quite concerned when I caught Paul part swimming, part walking out towards me. He stopped and we both asked at exactly the same time where the path back in was. On finally finding it we shared cuts and went to nurse the wounds in the café. It was surprising at just how the farcical could be so punishing.

When I arrived on Koh Phan gan I was the only guest staying at my accommodation. A number of days later and the place was booked out, most paying close to double the price. Why? Well the full moon was up and ready setting off the catalyst for one of the worlds premier parties. The full moon parties on Koh Phan gan are legendary. It was certainly a sight with thousands of people partying on the beach to tons of bars pumping out music. Fire limbo and skipping ropes provided entertainment as everyone danced away the night. I met by chance various people who I had met on Koh Phi Phi which was good fun. All in all the night turned out to be much more a spectacle in terms of numbers than a great night but was well worth going to.

Getting off Koh Phan gan was a slight chore as thousands of others had the same idea. We succeeded the day after we intended and headed with many others to the tiny island of Ko Tao.