Wednesday, 23 February 2011

Yale National Park


It was a national holiday when we tried to leave Ella so buses were in their rariety. Also there were seven of us, all with big bags, stood at the bus stop. Drivers don't like picking up tourists with bags let alone seven! So instead we jumped into a shared taxi and meandered our way down to the rather lovely Tissa. After an altercation with a guest house in the Lonely Planet, where the owner lost his cool due to noone wanting to stay there, we eventually settled upon the wonderful 'Lake view' guesthouse. A bargain with glorious owners and a picturesque view over...guess what...the lake! We swam with the locals a number of times after reassurances that there were no crocodiles.

At 5am we loaded into two jeeps and accelerated towards the main reason people come to Tissa, Yale National Park! We had hoped we would have the charasmatic and entertaining Nirlin as our driver but due to their being too many of us we went in the other jeep with the owner of what appeared to be the most miserable face in Sri Lanka. On the journey there we prayed that he was getting into the right frame of mind, getting motivated for the day ahead. We were not hopeful.

But how wrong we were! As soon as we passed through the gates our eagle eyed driver was a man in his element. Everytime he spotted wildlife, he realed off more informaiton that you could possibly comprehend before goiing silent and focussing on his next find. Quite simply, he was a man of facts.

It was with his amazing ability to see animals a mile off trhat made for so many great memories. The first find was actually outside the main entrance gate. With between eight and twelve in the park, seeing a tusked Indian Elephant was quite a stroke of luck. We watched from our jeep as it feasted on the grass around it. From then on in the animal sightings kept coming. We saw spotted deer, water buffalloos and a large array of birdlife. But it wasn't all about the animals and birds. The watering holes and jungle, where large rocks emerged, all leveling out to the enterance to the ocean, was spectacular.

Just as were about to head for breakfast we were directed to a huge rock. With the help of binoculars you could make out a leopard asleep on the rocks. Not as close a sighting as we might have hoped for but as we arrived at the beach for some rice idly and dal we were buzzing with excitement.

After food we breezed around for another hour or so. We saw land monitor lizards a plenty. The best sighting of them was a couple in a tree. How something that size could climb up there was anyone's guess. Incredible creatures. By far the highlight though was seeing a mother elephant and her calf. We sat there for ages admiring these wonderful animals stripping leaves and preparing them before eating. Due to the heat around the middle of the day, we retired to the river where we were served a superb rice and curry and a variety of fruits.

We passed time playing cards for a couple of hours before it was time to head back out again. Straight away we struck gold, finding ourselves a meter or so away from a fully grown male elephant. We watched as it collected grass and kicked the dust off it (into our eyes) before eating it. It's a moment I will never forget. We might not have got lucky on the leopard front but we were quids in on elephant sightings. At this point we had had great value for money, but it got better!



Our driver took us to see a dead elephant carcass. How lovely of him! Maybe not the nicest smell in the world, but through the trees we could make out jackals scavenging from it. Close by were many crocodiles. Their ability to stay hidden is so impressive. The longer and closer we looked the more we spotted. Our complaisancey at lunch by the river was called into question. We would have had a seriously hard time seeing one of those coming at us! It was amazing just how close the jackals could go to the crocodiles without coming into any danger. At one point a crocodile walked past towards a jackal eating. We preapred ourselves for a fight but alas this was not 'fight corner'.

Now 'fight corner' was the last stop on our safari. We stopped to look at two peacocks (there are tons in the park). Unusually they were not flirting but fighting! They did this by walking around in a circle. We were much amused. Then suddenly the spotted deer, right next to them, locked antlers. The sound of them colliding was immense. If that wasn't enough, two crocodiles approached each other. In the water they faced off before an almighty splash as they clashed. Our driver looked bemused. It had all gone a little mad. It was an incredible sight being able to observe wildlife at its most natural. As for the results. Well the crocodiles one was over quickly with the largest one chasing the smaller one away. The deers was the most unsporting with numerous blows when the other wasn't looking. The poor peacocks fight, well it just never ended. As 'fight corner' calmed down, we left them to it, just walking around in circles.

The park and Tissa itself was a real highlight in Sri Lanka. The amount and variety of animals, bird life, and scenery meant even for a full day driving in a jeep (that alone was fun due to the terrain!) it never got boring.

Haputale and Ella


There are three million rickshaws in Sri Lanka. That's one for every seven people. This is even more incredible considering the bus service covers 95% of all roads. You never have to wait longer than ten minutes for a bus, wherever you are. Unfortunately unlike India, they are not so direct, meaning it often involves a lot of changes to get anywhere. The bus to Haputale was no different, with five in all. Ten minutes into the first bus we stopped for lunch (I hate it when that happens!). By the time the bus was ready to set off again, six policeman had boarded and were searching bags and people. You might think they were on the hunt for bombs, weapons or even terrorists, but their secretive smiles and giggles told a different story. They were on the hunt for a missing vegetable from one of the Ladies bags. They found nothing much to the amusement of nearly everyone on the bus. With no crime obvious, we carried on our journey.

Haputale is beautiful. Clinging to the hillside and surrounded by tea plantations, we had a stunning view from our balcony. On the first day we walked through the plantations. Unlike in India, where it all seems to be private property and keep out signs, here we were free to explore, amongst a chorus of 'hellos' from all the workers. There is surely no happier, friendlier and more polite country in the world. The highlight of the walk turned out to be the two large lizards we saw. One had a large array of bright colours and sat there undeterred by our presence. I will add photos soon.

On the second day we caught a bus to the third largest waterfall in Sri Lanka. It was great at the bottom but eager to climb to the top we enlisted the locals to help us. Diverting us through their homes, bogs, paddy fields and grass over six foot tall, it was a chore in the heat of the day. Eventually we arrived and dived into the pools at the top. There was a mini-fall where you could stick your head under as well as a pool where you could peer over the top as the water thundered down from it. It was immense. That said there is always a downside to paradise. Upon getting out my whole hand was covered in little black spiders and I had a lizard attached to the back of my leg. Lovely! In the evening we met a five year old who could strip wires and mend a battery to power his toy train. That's something you don't learn in reception class.



We then journeyed through the hills on the wonderfully old fashioned train to Ella. Very much like Haputale it's relaxed and very green. Over the two days I did two climbs to little Adam's Peak and the striking Ella rock. With both the views deteriorated quickly due to the clouds but they were good varied walks. This was certainly the case with the latter where you had to traipse along the railway line for a good forty five minutes before crossing paddy fields and then climbing up through the forest to the top. Finally you plonked yourself on the rock admiring the hazy view in the distance and the sheer drop below. In the evening I did a cooking course at a nearby restaurant. The smiling and charismatic chef is renowned for the twists he makes to traditional recipes. The food he showed us was probably the best food I have had to date on my travels.

That was it for the hill country. A very beautiful area of the country. Despite quite a lot of cloud we were very lucky to not see much rain outside of Kandy. Next it was back down south and into the sauna once again.

Adam's Peak


It took between five and six buses to get to Dalhousie, the starting point for the climb to Adam's Peak. On the whole these endless journeys are entertaining. On these alone I witnessed a man selling balloons that make a noise when released. He then proceeded to demonstrate it on the moving bus by releasing them to the bemusement of all as they whizzed wildly out of control. Then there was the man with the photo album containing pictures of him trapped under a rock surrounded by a crowd of people and later receiving a trophy. He received less money from the passengers on the bus. Lastly there was the lady who after handing out magazines proceeded to do a rap for twenty minutes at the front. Unfortunately though buses on the Indian subcontinent also have a dark side. Half way through the journey, an 'express bus to the airport' carved the bus I was in up and slammed on the breaks. Promptly two guys jumped off and charged towards our bus. The conductor searched around for somewhere to hide. He sized up the monk (who sat in his specially reserved seat) or the only white face on the bus. He cowered behind me. I recalled stories of fist fights and baseball bats. I took a deep breath as they through themselves aggressively onto the bus. Thankfully a verbal outburst, and a lot of pointing, was all that was in order, with one of the guys acting as a restrainer (whilst still having his say). Everyone on the bus sat in silence, watching, giving the eerie feeling that it was an all to common event. Almost as soon as they had left the bus and sped away, our conductor got straight onto the mobile. I have little doubt that he was organising his own retaliation.

Finally I arrived none the wiser as to where Sri Lankas most important pilgrimage site was hiding. The clouds clung to the valley. Full of optimism though we were on the path at 3am the following morning with stars across the sky, hoping to make the top by sunrise. It's one of the strangest climbs that I have ever done. With a Buddhist temple on the top it's visited by thousands of pilgrims every year. The dominance of Buddhism is slightly confusing considering many suggest that the footprint at the top can be attributed to Adam on his first entrance into the world and even Lord Shiva as well as Buddha.



To help the older pilgrims they've installed those dreaded things called steps. All 5,200 of them, as well as lights all the way up the path. You pass various statues and temples as chants echo out from the speakers. Despite the pleasant atmosphere, the steps were a killer. Not to be deterred though we made it to the top in under two hours, an impressive time even if I say so myself.

When the sun finally rose it revealed a range of mountains full of mystique as the clouds clung to the valleys below. Whilst the tourists got snapping the monks and pilgrims went about the serious work of music and prayer. It was quite a sight from the top which made the torture of the steps worth it. On trudging back down we made use of a natural pool of water in the stream for a swim. It was freezing!!! By 9am I was back in bed. Job well done!

Wednesday, 16 February 2011

Sigiriya


"Stop faffing and get up there now!" the guest house owner might as well have said to me. The first dry day in weeks and despite my long bus journey, she was quite sure that me kicking back in a chair was not the correct option. 

I reluctantly agreed. Despite an overcast sky it seemed wise to take the opportunity and not risk the morning weather. Just getting to the entrance gate though turned out to be a chore. The previous rain had turned the path into a mud bath. Walking it was at times treacherous and wasn't helped by the signs that informed walkers of the presence of crocodiles. Just what I needed on the footpath!

When inside it all becomes worth it. Its hard not to feel like an ant in comparison to the gigantic rock fortress that emerges from the jungle. In the flat scenery that it is a part of, it is one of the most imposing sites I have ever seen. It's a decent climb to the top taking in muddy slopes, uneven steps and spiral staircases. On the way up you pass Buddhist paintings clinging to a cave wall, potentially dating back to the 5th century. There's also a mirror wall with graffiti from over a thousand years ago. In local script it's not something you can decipher but it's age is impressive enough. Most striking however is the huge lion paws about halfway up. Around the height of me, one can only imagine what it must have been like as part of a domineering statue of a lion scaling the height of the rock. At the top are the remains of what is now thought to be a Buddhist temple. Unfortunately due to the weather the views were not as good as they could be but you got a good sense of the jungle that surrounds it and the mountain peaks in the distance. This huge rock is quite literally in the middle of nowhere. Just when I was enjoying the success of then climb, the heavens opened and I got drenched. The guest house manager was right to a point!

Kandy

Kandy was a washout. The rain that has made the east coast a no go zone, hit the hill country with all it's force. So bad was It that I purchased my first ever umbrella. It kept me dry but also in a perpetual battle against every other pedestrian, who were also wielding umbrellas. At times the pavements came to a standstill as they became locked together!

Two memories stick in mind. The first was going to visit a rather strange religious site. Of all the countries in the world to have Buddhas tooth in it's sweet box, Sri Lanka would he low on the list. However despite nearly every colonial power attempting to steal it off of them, it now sits in an elaborate golden chest in the temple of the sacred tooth relic. It's a bizarre affair as you wonder around the beautifully decorated interior where monks are drumming and distributing kilos of rice to the shrines. When you finally find your way to where the tooth is stored, you queue alongside hoards of locals each carrying a gift. The queue moves quickly though as you only  have five or so seconds to gaze upon the incredible golden chest (the tooth is apparently inside), surrounded by elephant tusks, before being moved on by security. If your Japanese you get longer. Sri Lanka loves the Japanese. As an attraction it's one of the most confusing that I have seen. To set eyes upon such beauty, before having the door slammed in your face, without fully comprehending what you have seen, leaves you with mixed impressions.

The second memory was when walking to the tooth relic. Upon peering into the lake we found ourselves two meters away from a meter and a half lizard. What turned out to be a water monitor lizard resembled a crocodile when swimming and when attracted to our presence, a Komodo dragon, tongue and all as it edged out of the water. An amazing site to see something like that in the wild. 

With the weather not looking like it was going to improve, I left Kandy and spent a day travelling up north to Sigiriya. It was a shame to leave so soon as it looked like it had a lot to offer in the dry but it gives me an excuse to return on another trip.

Sunday, 6 February 2011

Midigama

I knew that I'd like Sri Lanka from the moment the immigration officer stamped my passport, after barely a glance, and then gave a huge smile which just spoke welcome to my country. The police and army that surrounded the airport couldn't have been more helpful. At 4am the ground temperature was twenty four degrees. By 6am I was enjoying an all you can eat Sri Lankan breakfast extravaganza.

From the airport I made a five hour bus joruney to the tiny beach of Midigama. Renowned as having the best breaks on the south coast it has three guest houses and not a lot else. It was there that I met up with Andrew, a surfer from South Africa and Tom and Alex from Brighton. We had all met at varying times in India but most recently in Goa. Ram's guest house was a treat to behold. Looking out to the breaks and beach it had some of the friendliest owners and workers that I have met so far. Oh and the curry and rice was delicious. It sounds unimaginative but the curry and rice in Sri Lanka is currently beating anything that India can serve up on the food front. There are just so many dishes!!!!

The waves at Midigama are big and not great for beginners not least because of the rocks that are concealed beneath them. You don't want to be falling off! So instead we surfed for two days, around ten minutes away at Weligama. The beach is not as picturesque, although a lot bigger, however the waves are more consistent and thankfully there is a sandy bottom. On the first day I was genuingly surprised by how quickly we took to it. I stood up a number of times and managed to ride it into the beach which was a fantastic feeling. Come the second day it started so well. Up on the board a lot of times, I was even getting the hang of turning it! And then I changed boards, the waves became less consistent and I started to overthink what I was doing. It became hard work. By the end of the day I was chuffed by the progress made but frustrated at the same time.

It wasn't all surfing. On the final day in Midigama we took a trip away from the ocean and to the Ayurvedic Medicine Snake Farm. It was a joy to visit not least because it is quite litterally a house with an attached shed where the wonderfully friendly and knowledgable owner keeps his snakes. Extracting the venom has been a job handed down from generation to generation. For the hour we were there the owner heaved out snake after snake to show us. The venomous ones were let loose on the floor whilst the others strung around our necks for us to hold. At one point he brought out two cobras. After putting one away he left the other in a trance with us all stood there. It was surreal seeing such a deadly snake so close and yet it being so unable or unwilling to do anything.

In the afternoon we took a trip over to Unawatuna. Whatever beauty it had was lost when the tsunami hit. Since that moment development took over and the beach has pretty much vanished under resteraunts and bars, many of which have been built on the high tide mark. Fortuantely hidden away over the other side there is a little treasure called Jungle Beach. Although the sea was not perfect we dawned the snorkel gear and went out over to the rocks. I've never snorkeled before. No more was that shown than when I was about to give up Alex informed me that I wasn't putting the goggles over my nose hence why I was drinking so much salt water! From that moment on the journey by the rocks was magic. Although it was murky there were so many fish straight out of the tropical aquariums from home. Shawls of fish bashed into you, it was immenses. Andrew, who we were indebited to for him knowing of this place, explained that exporting these fish is big business in Sri Lanka.

The following day we departed Midigama safe in the kowledge that we would be back there at the end of the trip. We took a chaotic bus journey to Hikkaduwa, a large beach on the souh coast. It was supposed to be the end of the big surf competition however due to poor weather they had posponed it. Thankfully though the trip wasn't in vain. Hikkaduwa is home to the bar where the Mambo's brand originated from. There they hosted the most professional party I've been to since I've been travelling, right on the beach. It was a great night.

It was from there that we left the beach for a while. Instead it was time to head up to the cooler climbs of the hill country.

Mamallapuram

I only stayed for one day so I won't write much however despite the short stay I was impressed. It's like a mini-Hampi. There are boulders and anchient temples dating back to the seventh century. But unlike in Hampi it's harder to lose yourself in the landscape. Main roads loop around groupings of temples and they are confined within a much smaller area. But that said it doesn't detract from the enjoyment of what is quite a spectacular open aired museum.

Mamallapuram and the one day I spent there made for a brilliant end to my time in India. It's a very relaxing and chilled small town with a good backpackers set-up. Outside of the ruins it also has a beach thrown into the mix. Although anyone thinking of spending any sort of time on it must be mad as it resembled a rubbish dump more than a beach. Despite this though hoardes of Indians were enjoying the beach and the waves which came crashing in. It made for an incredibly stressful time for the lifeguards as according to the sign over thirteen people die there every year.

And that was it. My time in india had come to an end. Four months have vanished in shockignly quick time. I've had a superb time, seen some breathtaking sights and met so many fantastic people. Sometimes challenging, it's always an adventure, India offers up something for everyone. Next Sri Lanka. I can't wait.